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Wire Jewelry Tips Of The Week January 25Th-31St

Question:

What design would be an easy design that sells well for a beginner?

Answer:

Many of the designs on our Free Jewelry Making Patterns page and also included in the Email Patterns list that you sign-up to receive free, are suitable for the beginner. You could also look at the Jewelry Kits we carry that go along with these patterns, to get a good look at the finished design before you try it.

Question:

I have a bunch of your videos. I do need help with one thing I can't find on your videos. I want to make a zig zag design on one of those little jig frames. I want it to be thick. What size and type of wire should I use, and how do I flatten it out?

Answer:

Although I don’t use a jig, my mom has one that I just played with so I could honestly answer your questions (as the designs I do that appear to be ‘jig-made’ are actually made using round nose pliers). I Used both copper and sterling silver, round, soft wire in my experiments, in gauges 22 through 16. Both metals worked well; the 18 and 16 gauge work hardened rather quickly on small tight designs and was more controllable on larger open patterns; 20 and 22 gauge worked best in the smaller tight designs and didn’t work harden to my desires on larger open designs.

To ‘flatten’ any designs like these, you can use a chasing hammer and a steel bench block. If you are just experimenting before making the decision to purchase these metal working items, a regular ball peen hammer (smooth the heads first with a grinder) and the top of a steel vise will work too. You can choose to just flatten the curved sections, or just the straight or the entire piece. By using this method, you will also work harden both the 21g and 22g round wire in larger designs.

My conclusion, and I believe the answer to your query of how to create jigged designs that are thick and flat, would be to use either a 16g or 18g round, soft wire.

An example of a round wire design, made using round nose pliers and finished with a chasing hammer and bench block can be found here: http://wire-sculpture.com/pages/suzanne_hollingsworth_christmas_tree_charm.html

Question:

What type of material should I use to restring pearls?

Answer:

Although some folks like to use synthetic materials, it is my opinion that pearls (especially nice ones) need to be strung on double silk cord. A knot should be placed between each pearl to prevent them from rubbing against one another, as this will eventually wear off their nacre. Over time silk will stretch a bit, therefore it is important that the knots be placed as tightly to the pearl as possible.

I did an Internet search using the phrase ‘restring pearls’ and found some great sites with free tutorials showing exactly how to restring these beautiful orbs. (Although there are specialty tools offered, my mother restrings pearls and makes her knots using a simple hatpin.) Wire-Sculpture also has a great article with all kinds of information regarding pearls here: http://wire-sculpture.com/pages/pearl_particulars.htmlAnswer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Question:

What kind of media do I use in my new tumbler when working with metal pieces such as jump rings?

Answer:

For working with just metal like jump rings in a tumbler, everyone I spoke with uses mixed Stainless Steel shot. For the procedure: http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-jewelry-artists/269/tumbling-your-jewelry/

Question:

I use a lot of irregular stones in my work and when I wrap with wire, I guess as to how much wire I will use. I have a tendency to over estimate so I won't come up short, but sometimes end up with many extra small pieces. Is there a rule of thumb for how much wire should be laid out for a particular project?

Answer:

As I have no idea what style of wrapping you are using for these irregular stones, I can only give you a general formula: measure the distance from top to bottom and multiply by 2, this is how much wire it will take to go around the stone once; depending on the size and shape of the stone, add about ½ inch for the curves and then add for the bail (usually 2 ½ to 3 inches).

Or make it really easy to figure the length needed by wrapping it with a piece of string or dental floss first! (Then measure the length of string and add the above suggestions.)

Question:

What is the best way to remove glue residue left from the guilter's tape?

Answer:

The easiest way to remove the excess residue from any tape is with a cotton swab dipped in denatured alcohol. It will also remove any left over marks from your markers.

About the Author

http://wire-sculpture.com

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